Caring for Mahogany Furniture

Georgian Mahogany Chest of Drawers c1790

There is nothing better than a piece of antique Mahogany furniture to add refined elegance to any space. For over 300 years this exotic hardwood has been reserved for some of the finest pieces ever made and its signature red tone is instantly recognisable to all as a sign of quality.

Although most red hardwood is often given the overarching title of ‘Mahogany’ to make them sound luxurious, there are in fact quite a few timbers that are similar in characteristic but are not technically mahoganies. These include Teak, Cedar, Meranti and Sapele to name a few. Indeed since 2003 it has been illegal to log and sell new genuine Mahogany except for a very small supply of the South American variety. This is because it is on the endangered list in many regions. This restriction of course does not apply to old Mahogany furniture making antique Mahogany even more special.

There are as said only a handful of different genuine mahogany species which each have their own unique tones and graining, and these have tended to be used at different periods as different supplies dried up. With a little bit of practice, it is not too hard to discern between West Indian or Cuban, Honduran and Pacific Mahogany which can help you date the item.

Regency Fiddleback Mahogany Chiffonier c1815

The first Mahogany timber imported on a large scale into Europe was at the start of the 18^th Century was from Jamaica and the West Indies. Antique pieces of this variety have a slightly muddier brown tone than the others but with a very tight grain it cuts, polishes and carves extremely well making it the timber of choice for many years. It was used extensively in the ship-building industry for hulls during the 18^th Century as well as for furniture and musical instruments.

In the early years West Indies Mahogany was plentiful as plantation owners were happy to fell the trees to make space for similarly profitable sugar beet production. However, by the second half of the 18^th Century supplies were already beginning to run out and attention turned to other supplies. On the whole 18^th Century mahogany furniture tends to be a slightly more brown in colour than 19^th and early 20^th Century examples which are much redder in colour. Honduran mahogany which is popular for its almost tiger stripe look did not really become popular until the 20^th Century. 

Tools of the Trade

Caring for your Solid Mahogany

With a tight grain solid mahogany is usually quite stable over time. Therefore, unless your item has been exposed to excessive damp or extreme temperature changes (which may cause the item to warp), it is usually quite happy just being left alone and waxed from time to time only. Beeswax is best as this was the traditional polish, and don’t use wax sprays or spray cleaners as these tend to contain chemicals inside which will eat away at the wax and French polish finish. French Polish first appeared towards the end of the 18^th Century and is made from a mixture of shellac mixed with alcohol. Because Mahogany is a very dense wood French polish sits well on the surface and is built up in thin layers until the desired depth and shine is created. It was the Victorians who really championed the high gloss look of French polish and Georgian pieces in contrast tend to have a softer finish. 

Wax and shellac have a tendency to hold dust so over time this builds up to darken the finish and create the warm patina we all love. In most cases this patina requires no attention, but if you do wish to lighten the piece ever so slightly then a little bit of burnishing cream is a good start. Methylated spirit is very effective at melting away the old layers of finish, but you do need to be competent here so as not to overdo it (unless you are trying to remove the old finish entirely). 

If your solid Mahogany piece has suffered warping or damage, then thankfully that is quite straight forward for a qualified restorer to fix or replace. They will use period timber and stains to match the grain and colour. The same is true for ring marks created by plant pots or hot tea cups sitting directly on the surface. In these instances, the water reacts with the finish to leave an ugly white or black ring. White rings are far easier to remove than black as they exist only within the polish and widely available ‘ring remover’ products are quite effective. In contrast black rings are usually caused by the water reacting with the tannins in the wood which darken upon contact. These dark marks can be removed using Oxalic Acid but again is best left to a competent restorer who will know how much and for how long to leave it. Left too long and the Oxalic Acid will eat into the surface of the timber and lighten the area too much.  

Repairing Veneers

Caring for Veneered Mahogany

While solid mahogany has quite a soft graining, more dramatic effects can be found at the junctions between branches and the trunk of the tree. From here bold ‘flame’ and ‘fiddleback’ effects can be cut, but although they are far more visually appealing that part of the tree is not as structurally sound for furniture as the rest. The logistical and financial solution was to cut these highly figured boards up into thin veneers which could be applied to a softwood frame.

While it makes little difference to the price, it is quite simple to tell the difference between a solid piece of mahogany and one that is veneered (or partially veneered) in mahogany. Apart from the level of graining and obvious join marks of the veneer sheets, solid mahogany is very heavy compared to a veneered piece and the inside will quickly show the unfinished mahogany or pine.

When it comes to looking after veneered mahogany then the approach is much the same as with solid mahogany. Because the veneer is only thin, chips and cracks are far more common as the underlying softwood frame either shifts due to heat or time, or the old glue holding the veneer down loosens. This is why it is not a good idea to place a veneered piece of furniture right next to a radiator. If the old veneer is beginning to peel this can sometimes be re-adhered just by covering the area with a clean cloth and a hot iron to reactivate the pearl glue. If that doesn’t work then new glue may be needed.

Mid Victorian Mahogany Desk Chair

Mahogany furniture can provide you with a lifetime of enjoyment, elegance, and practicality. These are items which our ancestors lovingly constructed and greatly admired hundreds of years ago. With just a little bit of care on our part, they can continue to be enjoyed for many more years to come.